The Abaco Islands, a cluster of islands nestled in the northern reaches of The Bahamas, are a geographical and historical entity often overlooked by those who haven't felt the salt spray or the quiet hum of isolation. Situated approximately 193 miles (310.6 kilometers, or 167.7 nautical miles) east of Miami, Florida, these islands present a stark contrast to the bustling mainland. The primary landmasses, Great Abaco Island and Little Abaco Island, are connected by a narrow strip of land, with Little Abaco lying just off the northern tip of its larger counterpart.
Beyond these main islands lies a scattering of smaller barrier cays, each with its own character and story. To the north, the remote Walker's Cay and its neighbor Grand Cay mark the archipelago's northernmost inhabited points. Moving south, one encounters Spanish Cay and the charming Green Turtle Cay, home to the settlement of New Plymouth. Further along the chain are Great Guana Cay, the privately owned Scotland Cay, Man-O-War Cay with its rich boat-building heritage, and Elbow Cay, famous for its picturesque settlement of Hope Town. The southernmost inhabited islands include Tilloo Cay and Lubbers Quarters. Off the western coast of Abaco, Gorda Cay, now a Disney-owned private island known as Castaway Cay, serves as a popular cruise ship destination. The vicinity also includes Moore's Island.
On the main island of Great Abaco, Marsh Harbour stands as the commercial heart of the Abacos and the third-largest city in The Bahamas. Nearby, Treasure Cay offers a resort experience. Mainland settlements are dispersed, with Coopers Town and Fox Town located in the north, while Cherokee and Sandy Point are found in the south.
Administratively, the Abaco Islands are divided into seven of the 31 Local Government Districts of The Bahamas: Grand Cay, North Abaco, Green Turtle Cay, Central Abaco, South Abaco, Moore's Island, and Hope Town.
Geography
The Abaco Islands are primarily composed of limestone, with a topography that offers some elevation. Their Atlantic-facing shores are shielded by the world's third-largest barrier reef, a natural bulwark that shapes the marine environment. The cays themselves are characterized by extensive tidal mangrove swamps and pristine white-sand beaches. A significant portion of these islands remains uninhabited, adding to their wild allure. The Abaco Islands and their surrounding cays are often referred to collectively as the Out Islands, Family Islands, or Friendly Islands, terms that evoke a sense of remoteness and close-knit community.
History
The earliest known inhabitants of the Abaco Islands were the Lucayans, a branch of the Taínos who populated much of the Caribbean. They called the islands Lucayoneque, a name interpreted as "the people's distant waters." Their presence, however, was tragically short-lived. The Spanish, within years of Christopher Columbus's arrival in the Americas, began enslaving the Lucayans, and by 1520, they had been entirely removed from the Bahamas. This catastrophic depopulation left the islands uninhabited for roughly 130 years.
Pre-Columbian and Spanish Eras
While Spain claimed the Bahamas after Columbus's voyages, their interest in the archipelago was minimal. The Italian explorer Amerigo Vespucci spent four months exploring the islands between 1499 and 1500. Juan de la Cosa's seminal 1500 map of the New World depicts the Abaco Islands under the name Habacoa. The Peter Martyr map, published in 1511, shows the Bahamian islands but without specific names. Spanish explorer Juan Ponce de León is believed to have landed on Abaco in 1513. A 1523 map from Turin clearly shows Abaco, then identified as Iucayonique, and remained the most accurate representation of the area until the advent of English cartography in the region. Maps by John White (1590) and Thomas Hood (1592), as well as a 1630 map by the Dutchman de Laet, also feature the islands. During this period, Spain's focus in the Caribbean was largely concentrated on Havana. The depopulated Bahamas were deemed unprofitable and hazardous for navigation, a fact underscored by a Spanish fleet of 17 ships that wrecked off Abaco in 1593. Furthermore, English and French pirates intensified their attacks on Spanish vessels north of Cuba, leading to a Spanish ordinance in 1561 that prohibited merchant ships from entering the Bahamas without an escort. Spain and Great Britain exchanged control of the Bahamas numerous times over a 150-year span, with a definitive treaty in 1783 ceding the islands to Great Britain in exchange for East Florida.
British Colonial Era
The year 1783 marked a significant turning point for Abaco with the arrival of Loyalists fleeing the American War of Independence. A call for settlers published in New York's Royal Gazette in 1783 prompted approximately 1500 Loyalists to relocate to Abaco in August of that year. They established a settlement called Carleton, named in honor of Sir Guy Carleton, near a small sandy harbor about six leagues north of Marsh Harbour, close to present-day Treasure Cay. However, internal disputes over food distribution and a misjudgment of the available resources led some settlers to found a rival settlement near Marsh Harbour, known as Maxwell. This friction between dissatisfied settlers and governing officials became a persistent feature of island life. In 1785, the settlers introduced sea island cotton. While the crops of 1786 and 1787 were successful, the 1788 harvest was decimated by caterpillars. Other settlements established during this period include Green Turtle Cay, Man-o-War Cay, and Sandy Point. In the 1790s, a group of Loyalists from the Carolinas, having passed through Florida, arrived and founded the secluded settlement of Cherokee Sound.
Slave Revolt
The early 19th century saw incidents involving slave ships that profoundly impacted the Abaco Islands. In December 1830 and again in 1834, two slave ships from the United States, The Encomium and The Comet, wrecked off the coast of Abaco. Bahamian customs officials seized the enslaved individuals aboard – 165 from The Comet and 48 from The Encomium – and declared them free, despite protests from the ship crews. A subsequent indemnity agreement between the United Kingdom and the United States in 1855 addressed these events.
Another slave ship, The Hermosa, met a similar fate, wrecking on Abaco in 1840. The enslaved people on board were unilaterally emancipated by the Bahamians involved. These occurrences are believed to have influenced the later revolt led by Madison Washington.
Bahamian Independence
The push for Bahamian Independence from Britain gained momentum in the latter half of the 20th century. In June 1971, Prime Minister Lynden Pindling announced his government's intention to seek independence. In response, the Greater Abaco Council was formed with the explicit goal of lobbying for continued British rule. In July 1971, this council submitted a petition to Queen Elizabeth II requesting that Abaco be granted status as a 'completely self-contained and fully self-supporting' territory under British jurisdiction. The British government, however, rejected this petition in August 1971.
The September 1972 general election across The Bahamas revealed a clear national mandate for independence. The results in Abaco, however, were more nuanced. The pro-independence Progressive Liberal Party secured one of Abaco's two parliamentary seats by a slim margin, while the Free National Movement, which opposed immediate independence, won the other seat by a substantial majority.
Throughout December 1971, all-party constitutional talks took place in London. The Greater Abaco Council dispatched representatives to London for a parallel 'collateral conference' to present their case. The British government firmly rejected any proposal for Abaco's independence or secession from the rest of The Bahamas. Accepting this reality, the GAC disbanded at the close of 1972.
Soon after, Errington Watkins, the Free National Movement representative for the Abaco-Marsh Harbour seat, established a new organization named the Council for a Free Abaco. This group organized a second petition, signed by half of Abaco's registered voters, which Watkins presented to London in May 1973. His aim was to influence the debate on The Bahamas Independence Order within the British Parliament. A sympathetic Member of Parliament, Ronald Bell, introduced an amendment that would have kept Abaco as a British colony, separate from an independent Bahamas. This amendment was ultimately defeated in the House of Commons and did not prevent The Bahamas Independence Order from passing on May 22, 1973. A similar motion in the House of Lords met the same fate three weeks later.
A final attempt by Errington Watkins to secure a United Nations-supervised referendum on Abaco's status, presented to The Bahamas House of Assembly in June 1973, was decisively defeated. The Bahamas officially gained independence on July 10, 1973.
Abaco Independence Movement and onward
In the aftermath of Bahamian independence, the Abaco Independence Movement (AIM) was formed in August 1973. This political party advocated for the self-determination of Abaco within a federal Bahamas structure. Founded by Chuck Hall and Bert Williams, AIM sought financial support from the US Libertarian Party and an American financier named Michael Oliver, who, through his libertarian Phoenix Foundation, agreed to provide funding. The movement also garnered support from Mitchell WerBell, an American arms dealer and mercenary. However, WerBell's discussions of armed insurrection and his attempts to recruit mercenaries significantly discredited AIM. The Progressive Liberal Party's victory in the 1977 general election effectively signaled the end of the Abaco Independence Movement.
Hurricane Dorian
On September 1, 2019, Hurricane Dorian made landfall on Elbow Cay in the Abaco Islands. The storm's intensity was staggering, with sustained winds of 185 mph (300 km/h) and gusts reaching up to 225 mph (360 km/h). This made Dorian, at the time of landfall, tied with the 1935 Labor Day hurricane as the strongest Atlantic hurricane ever recorded to make landfall. The damage across the islands was described as "catastrophic" and "pure hell."
An estimated 75 percent of the homes on the islands were either damaged or completely destroyed. The total economic impact of Hurricane Dorian on The Bahamas was estimated at 3.4 billion in damages, losses, and additional costs, the private sector bore nearly 90 percent of the total losses. Abaco alone accounted for 87 percent of the losses and 76 percent of the damage.
Demographics
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The combined population of the Abaco Islands was approximately 17,224 as of 2010. The principal settlement and administrative center is Marsh Harbour.
In addition to Marsh Harbour, Great Abaco Island hosts several other settlements, including Cherokee Sound, Coopers Town, Crossing Rock, Green Turtle Cay, Hope Town, Little Harbour, Rocky Point, Sandy Point, Spring City, Treasure Cay, Wilson City, and Winding Bay.
Surrounding Great Abaco are numerous smaller islands, commonly known as cays, many of which are popular destinations for tourists. Notable among these include Castaway Cay (formerly Gorda Cay), Elbow Cay, the Grand Cays, Great Guana Cay, Green Turtle Cay, Man-O-War Cay, Moore's Island, Tilloo Cay, and Walker's Cay.
The racial composition of the Abaco Islands, based on the 2010 census, was as follows:
- Black: 14,080 (81.75%)
- White: 2,370 (13.76%)
- Black and White: 384 (2.23%)
- Black and Other: 97 (0.56%)
- White and Other: 90 (0.52%)
- East Indian: 25 (0.15%)
- Asian: 24 (0.14%)
- Other races: 60 (0.35%)
Activities
The Bahamas National Trust actively manages six national parks within the Abaco Islands, dedicated to preserving the archipelago's natural beauty and biodiversity. These protected areas include:
- Pelican Cays Land and Sea Park
- Abaco National Park
- Black Sound Cay National Reserve
- Walker's Cay National Park
- Tilloo Cay National Reserve
- Fowl Cays National Park
The Great Abaco Family Fitness Weekend, held annually in March in Treasure Cay, draws both domestic and international tourism. The event features a variety of athletic competitions, including an open-water swim, sprint and Olympic triathlons, a children's race, and a 5k/10k fun run/walk. The Abaco Club boasts an 18-hole championship golf course, designed by Donald Steel and Tom Mackenzie, which serves as the venue for the Great Abaco Classic.
A distinctive local landmark is the red and white striped lighthouse located in Hope Town on Elbow Cay.
The Abacos are renowned for their opportunities for fishing, diving, and boating. Green Turtle Cay offers an interactive Bahamas Pig Tour, while Hope Town captivates visitors with its historic lighthouse. A variety of restaurants and bars serving traditional Bahamian cuisine are scattered throughout the island resorts.
Transportation
The Abaco Islands are served by two main airports: Marsh Harbour Airport (MHH) and Treasure Cay Airport (TCB). Travel to and from the Abacos typically connects through Florida or Atlanta. On the main islands, car and boat rentals are readily available. For navigating the smaller cays, rental golf carts and boats are the primary modes of transport, supplemented by bicycles and scooters. Marsh Harbour Airport was the site of a tragic plane crash on August 25, 2001, which claimed the lives of nine passengers, including the acclaimed R&B singer Aaliyah.
Inter-island transportation is facilitated by ferries. Ferries to the southern cays depart from Marsh Harbour, and another service operates from the Treasure Cay ferry dock, located about a thirty-minute drive from Marsh Harbour. Weekend ferry services also connect Nassau with Sandy Point on the southwestern tip of Great Abaco.
Sandy Point
Sandy Point is a small settlement situated at the southwestern extremity of Abaco. It is home to "Sandy Point Airport," which currently lacks scheduled carrier service, and a new police station. The settlement also comprises a few shops, several churches, and a handful of bonefish lodges. The annual "Homecoming and Conch Fest" is a local tradition, typically held around Bahamian Labour Day in early June.
In the 1990s, The Walt Disney Company acquired Gorda Cay, subsequently renaming it Castaway Island and incorporating it as a stop on their "Island in the Sun" cruise itineraries. Many Disney employees reside in Sandy Point. There is no public shore access for tourists to Castaway Cay. Further offshore and slightly to the north lies Moore's Island, featuring two settlements: "Hard Bargain" and "The Bight." Hole-in-the-Wall, distinguished by its lighthouse, appears close but requires a dedicated trip, preferably in a 4-wheel-drive vehicle, when approaching from Marsh Harbour.
Economy
The Abaco Islands have a long-standing reputation for shipbuilding. The primary exports include lumber, fruit, and pearl shells. Crawfish (Caribbean spiny lobster) are a significant export to the United States, and pulpwood is shipped to a processing plant in Florida. Tourism plays a crucial role in the Abaco economy.
In 2019, tourism reached approximately 300,000 visitors, solidifying the Abacos as the second most visited destination in The Bahamas. This surge in tourism is largely attributed to the allure of the islands' waters. Boating, swimming, and fishing are exceptionally popular activities in the archipelago, which frequently hosts fishing tournaments and regattas. The real estate sector has experienced considerable growth, driven by the expanding tourism industry, with Elbow Cay showing particularly high activity in 2018.
Environment
The Abaco Islands are home to ecologically significant natural areas, notably extensive coral reef systems, unique barrier-island terrestrial habitats, and vast forests of Bahamian pine (Pinus caribaea var. bahamensis). Some of these forests still contain old-growth trees. As development continues to expand in the Abacos, local conservation groups are actively engaged in efforts to protect their natural resources, as seen in the development disputes concerning Great Guana Cay.
Avian species found in Abaco include the Bahamian subspecies of the Cuban amazon parrot (Amazona leucocephala bahamensis). This subspecies is unique to Cuba, the Cayman Islands, the southern Bahamas, and Abaco. Notably, these parrots nest in cavities within limestone formations rather than in tree hollows. Abaco is also recognized for its remarkably intact elkhorn and staghorn coral structures. The islands were once home to a distinct breed of feral horse, the Abaco Barb, which sadly became extinct in 2015.
Notable people
- Thomas Winer Malone, a renowned boat builder.
- Steven Gardiner, a celebrated sprint athlete and Olympic medalist.
- Shavez Hart, another accomplished sprint athlete and Olympian.
- Elroy McBride, a sprint athlete who competed at the World Championships.