Burns Supper

It’s a celebration, apparently. Or, as some might call it, a ritual. Burns Night. It’s dedicated to the life and, more importantly, the poetry of Robert Burns , a man who apparently knew how to string words together in a way that made people want to eat haggis , neeps , and tatties in his honor. They hold these… gatherings… on or around his birthday, the 25th of January. It’s also known as Burns Night, or in the more melodious Scots tongue, “Burns Nicht,” and for those who dabble in Scottish Gaelic , “Oidhche na Taigeise.” You might also hear it referred to as Robert Burns Day, or Rabbie Burns Day, or even Robbie Burns Day if you’re in Canada. These celebrations aren’t confined to Scotland, oh no. They’ve spread like a particularly stubborn stain across the globe.

History

The genesis of this whole affair can be traced back to a rather somber occasion. The first supper, a memorial, if you will, was held at Burns Cottage in Ayrshire . It was orchestrated by Burns’s friends, a full five years after his death, on the 21st of July, 1801. Then, in that same year, a group of merchants, also hailing from Ayrshire and some of whom had apparently crossed paths with Burns himself, founded the first still-standing Burns Club in Greenock . They decided to hold their inaugural supper on what they believed was his birthday, January 29th, 1802. However, fate, or perhaps just diligent record-keeping, intervened. In 1803, they stumbled upon the Ayr parish records, which pointed to a birth date of January 25th, 1759. And so, the tradition shifted, settling on the 25th as the official date for these autumnal gatherings.

The Scottish Parliament seems to think this annual tribute is rather important, a cornerstone of their cultural heritage, apparently. They welcome the yearly commemoration of their national poet, Robert Burns, marking his birthday on January 25th. They laud him as one of history’s greatest poets, whose influence supposedly rippled across the world, shaping the thoughts of thinkers. They also make a point of mentioning his first published collection, Poems Chiefly in the Scottish Dialect , better known as the “Kilmarnock Edition,” released in 1786. This work, they claim, was instrumental in popularizing and advocating for the Scots language , a legacy they consider one of his most significant. The celebration, in their eyes, is an opportunity to highlight the cultural importance of Scots and its status as one of Scotland’s indigenous languages, underscoring the necessity of its written preservation for posterity, alongside its oral traditions.

Poetry to accompany haggis eating

These Burns suppers can range from the stiffly formal to the decidedly casual. Regardless of the atmosphere, you can generally expect haggis – that rather notorious Scottish dish, which Burns himself immortalized in his poem Address to a Haggis – accompanied by Scotch whisky and, of course, recitations of Burns’s poetry. The more formal affairs are often put on by institutions like universities, sporting clubs, the aforementioned Burns Clubs, the Freemasons , or St. Andrew’s Societies . These can sometimes culminate in dancing or a cèilidh . During the rather dismal global COVID-19 pandemic in 2021, these celebrations took a digital turn, proving surprisingly popular with families dining at home. The formal suppers, however, tend to adhere to a rather rigid order of proceedings.

Standard order

Piping in guests

Sometimes, the guests are greeted by the haunting sound of a bagpiper , as they mill about and mingle. In less formal settings, you’ll likely find more traditional Scottish music playing.

Host’s welcoming speech

The host , or whoever is in charge, will offer a welcome to the assembled guests, officially marking the occasion.

Occasionally, the anthem “O Flower of Scotland” is sung to kick things off.

Once everyone is seated, a grace is offered. More often than not, it’s the “Selkirk Grace ”, a blessing said before meals, rendered in the Scots language. While attributed to Burns, this grace was actually circulating in the 17th century, known then as the “Galloway Grace” or the “Covenanters ’ Grace.” It acquired the name “Selkirk Grace” because Burns was said to have recited it at a dinner hosted by the 4th Earl of Selkirk .

The Selkirk Grace, for your edification:

Some hae meat an canna eat, And some wad eat that want it; But we hae meat, and we can eat, And sae the Lord be thankit.

Soup course

The meal typically commences with a soup course. Common choices include Scotch broth , potato soup, cullen skink , or cock-a-leekie .

Haggis

Piping in the haggis

The moment of truth. Guests are invited to stand as the haggis makes its grand entrance. This is a meat dish, though in recent years, vegetarian alternatives have become increasingly common. It’s typically carried in by the cook on a large platter, often preceded by a bagpiper, leading the procession to the host’s table. Music might accompany this dramatic arrival, perhaps “A Man’s A Man for A’ That ”, a “Robbie Burns Medley,” or “The Star O’ Robbie Burns.” Following this, the host, or a designated guest, will deliver the Address to a Haggis .

“Address to a Haggis”

This is where the drama truly unfolds.

• Main article: Address to a Haggis

The original text, for those who appreciate the raw, unadulterated Scots:

Fair fa’ your honest, sonsie face,

Great chieftain o’ the puddin-race!

Aboon them a’ ye tak your place,

Painch, tripe, or thairm:

Weel are ye wordy o’ a grace

As lang’s my airm.

The groaning trencher there ye fill,

Your hurdies like a distant hill,

Your pin wad help to mend a mill

In time o’ need,

While thro’ your pores the dews distil

Like amber bead.

His knife see rustic Labour dicht,

An’ cut you up wi’ ready slicht,

Trenching your gushing entrails bricht,

Like ony ditch;

And then, O what a glorious sicht,

Warm-reekin, rich!

Then, horn for horn, they stretch an’ strive:

Deil tak the hindmaist! on they drive,

Till a’ their weel-swall’d kytes belyve,

Are bent like drums;

Then auld Guidman, maist like to rive,

“Bethankit” hums.

Is there that o’re his French ragout

Or olio that wad staw a sow,

Or fricassee wad mak her spew

Wi’ perfect scunner,

Looks down wi’ sneering, scornfu’ view

On sic a dinner?

Poor devil! see him ower his trash,

As feckless as a wither’d rash,

His spindle shank, a guid whip-lash,

His nieve a nit;

Thro’ bloody flood or field to dash,

O how unfit!

But mark the Rustic, haggis fed,

The trembling earth resounds his tread.

Clap in his wallie nieve a blade,

He’ll mak it whistle;

An’ legs an’ arms, an’ heads will sned,

Like taps o’ thristle.

Ye Pow’rs wha mak mankind your care,

And dish them out their bill o’ fare,

Auld Scotland wants nae skinkin ware

That jaups in luggies;

But, if ye wish her gratefu’ prayer,

Gie her a haggis!

And a rather more idiomatic translation for those less fluent in the vernacular:

Nice seeing your honest, chubby face,

Great chieftain of the sausage race!

Above them all you take your place,

Belly, tripe, or links:

Well are you worthy of a grace

As long as my arm.

The groaning platter there you fill,

Your buttocks like a distant hill,

Your pin would help to mend a mill

In time of need,

While through your pores the dews distill

Like amber bead.

His knife see rustic Labour sharpen,

And cut you up with practiced skill,

Trenching your gushing entrails bright,

Like any ditch;

And then, Oh what a glorious sight,

Warm-steaming, rich!

Then, spoon for spoon, they stretch and strive:

Devil take the hindmost, on they drive,

‘Til all their well-swollen bellies soon

Are tight as drums;

Then old Master, most likely to burst,

“Thanks be” hums.

Is there one, that over his French ragout,

Or olio that would give pause to a sow,

Or fricassee that would make her spew

With perfect loathing,

Looks down with sneering, scornful view

On such a dinner?

Poor devil! See him over his trash,

As feeble as a withered rush,

His spindly leg a good whip-lash,

His fist a nit:

Through bloody flood or field to dash,

Oh how unfit!

But mark the Rustic, haggis-fed,

The trembling earth resounds his tread,

Clap in his sturdy fist a blade,

He’ll make it whistle;

And legs and arms, and heads will cut,

Like tops of thistle.

You Pow’rs, that make mankind your care,

And dish them out their bill of fare,

Old Scotland wants no watery ware

That slops in bowls:

But, if You wish her grateful prayer,

Give her a Haggis!

At the line “His knife see rustic Labour dicht,” the speaker typically draws and sharpens a knife. Then, at “An’ cut you up wi’ ready slicht,” they plunge it into the haggis and slice it open from end to end. When executed with the proper flair, this “ceremony” is undeniably a highlight of the evening.

Main course

Following the dramatic unveiling and poetic tribute, a whisky toast is raised to the haggis, and then, finally, the company sits down to the actual meal. The haggis is traditionally served with mashed potatoes , referred to as “tatties,” and mashed swede turnip, or “neeps.”

Other courses

The culinary journey doesn’t necessarily end there. A dessert course, perhaps followed by cheese, and then coffee might also be part of the proceedings. These courses invariably feature traditional Scottish fare. For instance, dessert could be cranachan or tipsy laird (a whisky trifle), succeeded by oatcakes and cheese . All of this is, of course, intended to be washed down with the “water of life,” better known as Scotch whisky .

Toasts

Once the coffee stage is reached, the speeches and toasts commence.

Immortal memory

The main speaker delivers an address, delving into some aspect of Burns’s life or his poetic contributions. This can be either lighthearted or quite serious, and may include a recitation of one of Burns’s poems or songs. A toast to the “Immortal Memory of Robert Burns” follows this speech.

Address to the Lassies

This segment began as a brief speech offered by a male guest as a token of thanks to the women who had prepared the meal. However, it has evolved into something far broader, typically encompassing the male speaker’s perspectives on women. The men then raise a toast to the women’s health.

Reply to the Laddies

Occasionally, and with a touch of humor, this is referred to as the “Toast to the Laddies.” Similar to the preceding toast, it has expanded in scope and now generally covers a female guest’s views on men, often responding directly to points made by the previous speaker. It’s quite common for the individuals delivering these two toasts to coordinate their efforts, ensuring their speeches complement each other.

Works by Burns

After the speeches have concluded, there might be renditions of songs penned by Burns, such as “Ae Fond Kiss ”, “Such a Parcel of Rogues in a Nation ”, and “A Man’s A Man for A’ That”. Poetry readings are also common, including works like “To a Mouse ”, “To a Louse ”, “Tam o’ Shanter ”, “The Twa Dogs”, and “Holy Willie’s Prayer ”. These performances can be undertaken by individual guests or by specially invited experts. The program may also extend to works by poets who were influenced by Burns, particularly those who wrote in the Scots language .

Closing

To bring the evening to a close, the host typically calls upon one of the guests to offer a vote of thanks. Following this, everyone is invited to stand, join hands, and sing the universally recognized “Auld Lang Syne ”.