Look, if you insist on knowing about a large, slowly decaying piece of metal in a park, fine. But don't expect a brochure. This thing has a history, and like most history, it's a mix of grand intentions and inconvenient realities.
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Sculpture
The grounds of the Palais des Nations, the seat of the United Nations Office at Geneva, are littered with objects donated by various member states of the United Nations, private sponsors, and artists with something to say. Among these well-intentioned contributions, the Celestial Sphere, also known with a touch more reverence as the Armillary Sphere, commands the most attention. Situated in the Ariana Park, this massive bronze—over four meters in diameter—is the magnum opus of the American sculptor Paul Manship (1885–1966). It was gifted in 1939 by the Woodrow Wilson Foundation to what was then the shiny new League of Nations building.
Also known as the Woodrow Wilson Memorial Sphere, this intricate globe is more than just a decorative lawn ornament. It has, over the decades, become an unavoidable symbol of Geneva International and of Geneva itself as a supposed center for dialogue and peace. A grand idea, cast in metal, slowly succumbing to the elements. A metaphor, if you're into that sort of thing.
History
The story begins in late 1935. The Board of the Woodrow Wilson Foundation, seeking a fitting tribute to the late U.S. President Woodrow Wilson for his role as the primary architect of the League of Nations, contacted Manship. At the time, the Palais des Nations was still a construction site, a half-formed dream of global cooperation.
The initial proposal was for Manship to design a pair of grand doors connecting the Assembly Hall to the Halle des Pas Perdus—the Hall of Lost Steps. Both the artist and the foundation found this idea deeply unsatisfying. Doors, they reasoned, are merely functional. A memorial shouldn't be something you just walk through; it should be something that stops you in your tracks.
So, Manship countered with a far more ambitious concept: a monumental version of a celestial sphere, a design he had been refining for years through intense study. This was not a new idea for him; it was an evolution based on several earlier works, most notably the Aero Memorial in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. What set this version apart was its foundation. The sphere itself doesn't just sit there; it is borne upon the backs of four tortoises. These were not arbitrary reptiles; Manship adapted them from models he had created for the gates of the New York Bronx Zoo. The tortoises, in turn, rest on a stepped socle decorated with a cast representation of the Chinese "celestial sea" (Hai Shui Jiang Ya). This choice was steeped in symbolism; the tortoises can be interpreted as representing Ao, the Chinese tortoise of immortality—an auspicious figure dating back to the Tang dynasty. The sphere is a tapestry of astrological and mythological imagery, with zodiac signs drawn from the world's major civilizations, both ancient and contemporary.
Manship himself described his creation with the precision of an artist obsessed with detail:
The representation of the heavenly constellations is derived from Babylonia and Assyria: the Greeks and Latins added their names and gave the constellations a local significance in some cases and I have adhered as closely as possible to the ancient forms. Thus the star, Aldebaran, which represents the eye of Taurus, dictates the character of the design, as is also the case of Regulus, Leo's Heart, and so with all the constellations. The forms and attitudes of the figures have been made to correspond firstly with the positions and the meanings of the emblems themselves. After that the inter-relationship of the constellations was designed to create a harmonious ensemble.
A letter from Ham Armstrong to Arthus Sweetser, dated June 30, 1935, reveals the building committee's reaction. Having seen a model in Paris, they deemed the Celestial Sphere "superb," praising its "originality of conception," "delicacy of execution," and "spirituality of meaning." Predictably, their admiration was tempered by two mundane concerns: it would cost more than they had budgeted, and getting committees in both New York and Geneva to approve something so "novel and non-utilitarian" would be a bureaucratic nightmare. Nevertheless, the sheer force of Manship's vision won out. His proposal was accepted, and the official commission was awarded in April 1936.
Process
With the commission secured in the spring of 1936, Manship immediately began work on a large-scale model in wax. He assembled a formidable team of sculptors and artisans at his atelier to bring the complex design to life. This was no solo endeavor. The team included figures like Angelo Colombo and Giuseppe Massari. Even Richard Pousette-Dart, who would later become a renowned abstract expressionist painter, was part of the crew, collaborating with Herbert Kammerer on the sphere's intricate lettering. Apparently, even future art-world luminaries have to pay the bills.
By 1938, the original plaster moulds, executed by a craftsman named Flitzer, were completed and shipped to the Bruno Bearzi Atelier in Florence for the casting process. Bearzi and his team cast the sphere's myriad elements from these moulds using the cire-perdu (lost-wax) method. The alloy they chose was a bronze/zinc high-tin mix with added lead—a decision that would have consequences later. The final piece was a study in contrasts: the constellations were originally gilded, while the stars were chrome-silvered. The meridians and other architectural elements of the composition were finished with a variety of nielloed effects.
The final Celestial Sphere is an immense object, measuring 410 cm in diameter and weighing approximately 5,800 kg. Its spherical frame is a dense web of constellations and stars, representing 85 constellations of the known universe and featuring four stars of the first four magnitudes. The constellations glittered with gold leaf, and 840 stars shone with silver. And, in a classic artist's move, Manship hid his signature in plain sight: a small self-portrait in profile, tools in hand, tucked away among the celestial figures. A little touch of mortal vanity among the immortals.
A place for the Celestial Sphere
Creating the sphere was one challenge; deciding where to put it was another entirely. Manship had designed it with a specific location in mind: the Court of Honour, directly in front of the Assembly Hall. However, by 1937, a debate had emerged. Some argued that this prime space should be left open to preserve the panoramic view. When it became clear in 1938 that neither the Woodrow Wilson Foundation nor the artist was willing to compromise on a lesser location, a new plan was forged.
The sphere would be placed in the middle of the Park, positioned carefully—not too close to the building to feel crowded, and not too close to the trees to be obscured. To enhance its presence, it was installed in a small reservoir, a reflecting pool designed to mirror the image of both the sphere and the grand building behind it. The Bearzi Atelier handled the installation, and the Celestial Sphere was finally settled in its present location in the Court d'Honneur of the Ariana park in August 1939.
The official inauguration was scheduled for September 1939. The timing was, to put it mildly, unfortunate. As the world tipped into chaos, a grand ceremony celebrating universal harmony felt absurd. The sphere, designed "so that it would rotate slowly" on an axis pointed toward the Pole star and be illuminated at night, was unveiled to a world that had stopped listening.
Concerns
Grand gestures have a tendency to degrade. This one is no exception.
Dysfunctional rotation system and illumination
The outbreak of the Second World War meant the sphere's rotation motor was used for only a few months before being switched off. The files of the Woodrow Wilson Foundation capture the somber mood of its installation: "A complex silence and solitude reigned; the great ceremony of dedication, with the 30th Assembly in session, had become impossible: only an occasional chance visitor and a few especially interested Americans watched the Italians putting the great sphere, representative of universal comity, into its place of high honour." The motor remained dormant throughout the war from 1940–1945 and, after a brief revival, ceased to function for good in the early 1960s. The intended slow, majestic rotation is now just a footnote.
Deteriorating conditions
The sphere began showing signs of distress almost immediately. By 1942, significant problems were already apparent. The specific alloy used by the Bearzi Atelier had a fatal flaw: it contracted sharply in the winter cold, allowing a considerable amount of water to seep into the hollow-cast constellations. When that water froze, the expanding ice caused the metal to crack from within.
As early as 1942–43, several constellations required emergency repairs, and at least one meridian cover had to be replaced after it simply fell off. In a desperate attempt at a solution, "weep holes" were drilled into all the constellations to allow water to drain out—a crude but necessary intervention. The damage, however, is extensive and ongoing. The socle, which bears the entire 5,800 kg weight, has cracked under the strain. Large patches of corrosion and an uneven, mottled patina mar its surface. The 840 chrome-plated stars, once present in four distinct sizes, have been widely lost over the years. The entire spherical cage is now at the limit of its weight-bearing load. Metal fatigue, persistent cracks, and corrosion continue to contribute to its slow, inexorable deterioration. A monument to peace, quietly falling apart.
Symbol of Peace - Pax Universalis
And so, the Celestial Sphere stands today in the Court d’Honneur of the Palais des Nations, itself a landmark of Geneva. It is intended to serve as a vivid reminder that, despite all our cultural and religious squabbles, we are merely inhabitants of the same small planet, adrift in the same galaxy. The Earth. The sentiment is that the time has come to think in terms of a Pax Universalis rather than the more parochial Paxes of old, and that one of the paths to this universal peace is an "action-oriented dialogue, based on common human values and the ideals of the United Nations."
A noble idea. The sphere embodies it, even as its own state of decay offers a silent, cutting commentary on how well we've maintained those ideals.
Gallery
- The Celestial Sphere Woodrow Wilson Memorial in the Ariana Park with Lake Geneva in the background.
- The Celestial Sphere Woodrow Wilson Memorial with the Assembly Hall in the background. Palais des Nations, Geneva, 2010.
- Open day at the Palais des Nations in the Ariana Park, 5 June 2010.
- Portion of the Celestial Sphere, 2010.
- Portion of the Celestial Sphere, upper part 2010.
- Critical state of the Celestial Sphere, portion with signs of corrosion, 2010.
- Portion of the Celestial Sphere with the turtles, 2010.
- Critical state of the Celestial Sphere, 2010.