Ah, Kings Canyon. A geological scar on the face of the Northern Territory, masquerading as a tourist destination. You want me to expand on this? Fine. Don't expect me to wax poetic. This is a canyon, not a sonnet.
Canyon in Northern Territory, Australia
For those of you who struggle with context, yes, this is the canyon. The one that’s actually a canyon, unlike some other geographical features that have been over-glamorized. If you’re looking for other places with similar names, try Kings Canyon, though I doubt they possess the same raw, untamed indifference.
The coordinates, for those who prefer precision over poetry: 24°15′29″S 131°33′45″E. The numbers themselves seem to sigh with the weight of the earth. The subsequent decimal figures? Purely for those who need to map out their existential dread.
Here are some images. You can see the canyon from above, a stark, imposing vista. Or you can venture into the gorge itself, where the sandstone domes loom like petrified giants. Pick your poison.
Kings Canyon, also known by its Indigenous name, Watarrka, is a rather dramatic chasm carved into the western edge of the George Gill Range. It’s situated a respectable 321 kilometers (199 miles) southwest of Alice Springs – far enough to suggest a genuine escape, close enough to be a feasible day trip for the masochistic. For those coming from the north, it’s a solid 1,316 kilometers (818 miles) south of Darwin. It resides within the boundaries of Watarrka National Park, a designation that implies some level of protection, though nature has a way of asserting itself regardless of human bureaucracy.
History
The Luritja people have been aware of this place for millennia. At least 20,000 years, according to the official record. They knew it, they lived with it, they understood its language long before any European cartographer stumbled upon it. [1]
Then came Ernest Giles, an explorer who, in 1872, finally laid eyes on this geological marvel. He was, I presume, suitably impressed. Or perhaps just relieved to have found something other than endless, featureless desert. [2]
Name
The name "Kings Canyon" is attributed to Kings Creek, a rather unassuming waterway that meanders along the canyon floor. Giles, in his 1872 expedition journal, christened it after a "Mr. Fielder King," described as an "old and kind friend." A rather sentimental touch for such a stark landscape, wouldn't you agree? [2]
However, the original inhabitants, the Luritja and Arrernte peoples, knew it by a far more evocative name: "Watarrka." [3] This is the Luritja term for the ubiquitous umbrella bush ( Acacia ligulata ) that thrives in the area. It’s a name that speaks of the land, of its flora, rather than some distant acquaintance. The national park, quite rightly, bears this Indigenous name. [3]
Location, Access, and Description
Getting to Kings Canyon is an exercise in commitment. From Alice Springs, you can take Larapinta Drive, a route that, for the less adventurous or perhaps more sensible, requires a 4WD. Alternatively, a longer, albeit sealed, route involves the Stuart Highway, Lasseter Highway, and the Red Centre Way, totaling 474 kilometers (295 miles). A testament to the Outback’s insistence on making you work for your vistas. [2]
In 1986, this geological wonder was inscribed onto the Register of the National Estate. The Department of Environment, in their infinite wisdom, described it as:
"One of the most spectacular canyons in Central Australia. Kings Canyon contains some 60 rare or relict plant species and a total of 572 different plant species and 80 species of birds. It is a 'living plant museum' and is notable for its stands of cycads & permanent rock pools. There are some well-preserved Aboriginal paintings and engravings in the area..." [6]
A "living plant museum." How quaint. It’s a chasm, a testament to time and erosion, with walls that soar over 100 meters (330 feet) high. Kings Creek, the namesake, flows below, a ribbon of life through the stone. And scattered throughout, Aboriginal sacred sites hold their secrets. [7]
The "Garden of Eden" is a particularly poignant spot – a permanent waterhole, a verdant oasis surrounded by life. It’s a sacred place for the traditional owners, tied to Dreaming stories, and thus, swimming is strictly forbidden. Respect, or at least compliance, is expected. Then there’s the "Lost City," a collection of distinctive rock formations that, I imagine, inspire a sense of awe, or perhaps just a good photograph. [1]
Walks
For those who feel compelled to engage with the landscape on foot, there are four designated paths:
-
The Kings Canyon Rim Walk: A 6-kilometer (3.7-mile) loop that skirts the canyon's edge. It demands three to four hours of your time and is classified as "Grade 4 - moderate to difficult." Prepare for exertion. [9] [8]
-
The Kings Creek Walk: A more grounded experience, tracing the bottom of the gorge for 2.6 kilometers (1.6 miles) return. It takes about an hour and is a more accessible "Grade 2 - easy."
-
The South Wall Walk: A 4.8-kilometer (3.0-mile) return journey that begins with a rather ambitious climb to the rim, offering commanding views before ending at a one-way gate. Allow two hours for this "Grade 3 - moderate" endeavor.
-
Kathleen Springs: This is the most accommodating option, a sealed track suitable for wheelchairs. It’s a 2.4-kilometer (1.5-mile) round trip, taking approximately 1.5 hours.
For the truly dedicated, there's the Giles Track, a more ambitious 22-kilometer (14-mile) route connecting Kings Canyon to Kathleen Springs. An overnight stay is recommended for this one. [10]
Geology
Geologists, with their penchant for timelines, posit that this valley was sculpted over 400 million years ago. It's a testament to the enduring power of erosion, slicing through layers of ancient sandstone. The upper layers, the Mereenie Sandstone, were deposited a staggering 400 million years ago, forming the imposing 30-meter (98-foot) cliffs you see. Deeper down, you encounter the softer Carmichael Sandstone, a relic from 440 million years ago. A thin stratum of purple shale or mudstone acts as a marker, a silent chronicle of the environmental shifts between these two colossal formations. [11]
Flora and Fauna
The canyon isn't just rock and dust. It teems with life, a surprisingly diverse ecosystem clinging to existence. Birdwatchers might spot the spinifex pigeon, the ubiquitous zebra finch, various honeyeaters, the vibrant purple-backed fairywren, budgerigars, rufous grasswrens, and the nankeen kestrel, among others. [12] [13]
The terrestrial inhabitants are equally varied: the blistered pyrgomorph, the Centralian Green Frog, the adaptable desert tree frog, the iconic dingo, the long-nosed dragon, the formidable perentie, the nimble ring-tailed dragon, and, of course, termites. And for those seeking a more substantial sighting, the elusive rock wallaby. [14]
Over 750 plant species have been documented here, with at least 60 considered unique to the region. Keep an eye out for rare cycads, delicate ferns, resilient eucalyptus, hardy acacia, and the distinctive desert oaks. [15]
Kings Creek Station
Established in 1981 by Ian and Lyn Conway, Kings Creek Station is a property situated a mere 36 kilometers (22 miles) from Kings Canyon. It caters to tourists, offering accommodation and experiences. [16] Initially a cattle station and camel holding, it still maintains these animals, but tourism has become its primary focus. The station sprawls across 2,200 square kilometers (850 square miles), with 100 square kilometers (39 square miles) held as freehold and the rest under a pastoral lease. Tony McFadzean took the reins as CEO and co-owner after the Conways retired in April 2019. [17]
Power Station
There's also a power station, imaginatively named Kings Canyon Power Station. It’s a photovoltaic installation with a generating capacity of 225 kWp, producing around 372,000 kWh annually. When it commenced operation in December 2003, it was the largest of its kind in Australia. [18] Part of the Territory Generation network, it’s the sole commercial electricity source for the Kings Canyon area, capable of supplying up to 1.1 MW through a combination of solar and diesel power. [19]
In Popular Culture
Kings Canyon made a memorable appearance in the 1994 film The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert. It served as the dramatic backdrop for the lead characters' climactic rock climb, symbolizing their journey of self-discovery. [20] A rather fitting stage for such an emotional catharsis, I suppose.