Lough Erne

Not to be confused with Loch Earn , which, one presumes, has its own distinct set of unremarkable characteristics.

Lough Erne (Loch Éirne)

The expanse known as Lough Erne (pronounced LOKH URN, for those who require such precise guidance, derived from the Irish language Loch Éirne) is not merely a single body of water, but rather a pair of interconnected lakes situated within the rather unassuming confines of County Fermanagh , Northern Ireland . This dual-lake system holds the distinction of being the second-largest of its kind in both Northern Ireland and the broader province of Ulster , securing its place as the fourth-largest lake system across the entire island of Ireland . Its geographical coordinates place it around 54°28′N 7°49′W, a precise location for those who enjoy such trivialities.

These lakes are, in essence, nothing more than naturally widened segments of the River Erne , a waterway that meanders northward before making a rather decisive westward turn towards its ultimate destination: the vast, indifferent Atlantic Ocean . The nomenclature, in typical human fashion, is entirely practical: the smaller, more southerly body of water is unimaginatively dubbed the Upper Lough, simply because it resides at a marginally higher elevation along the river’s course. Conversely, its larger, northern counterpart is known as the Lower Lough, or, with a touch more descriptive flair, the Broad Lough.

Interrupting the river’s brief, connecting stretch between these two primary bodies of water is the town of Enniskillen , a settlement that seems to exist solely to bridge this aquatic divide. The entire system is fragmented by an astonishing number of landmasses—over 150 islands , alongside a labyrinthine network of coves and inlets, as if nature itself couldn’t decide on a cohesive design [2]. The River Erne , the artery of this system, stretches for approximately 80 miles (129 km) [3] and drains a substantial catchment area spanning about 1,680 square miles (4,350 km²) [4]. This vast basin encompasses territories within both Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland , a testament to the river’s disregard for political boundaries.

The Upper Lough, with an average depth of roughly 7.5 feet (2.3 m), covers a surface area of about 13.3 square miles (34 km²) and extends for approximately 12 miles (19 km). Its deeper, larger sibling, the Lower Lough, plunges to an average depth of around 39 feet (12 m), boasts a surface area of approximately 42.3 square miles (110 km²), and stretches for about 26 miles (42 km). The maximum recorded depth for the entire system, a rather impressive 213.25 feet (65.00 m), is an anomaly in an otherwise relatively shallow system.

Scattered along its shores and islands are various settlements, including Enniskillen , Belturbet , Belleek , Pettigo , Kesh , Trory , Ballycassidy , Killadeas , and Derrylin , each clinging to the water’s edge with varying degrees of permanence. A portion of this system, specifically Upper Lough Erne, was officially designated as a Ramsar Wetland on 4 March 1997, a bureaucratic nod to its ecological significance, bearing the reference number 896 [1].

Name, mythology and folklore

The etymology of Lough Erne , or Loch Éirne in Irish , appears to be rooted in the annals of antiquity, either deriving from an ancient populace known as the Érainn, or, perhaps more romantically, from a goddess from whom these Érainn reputedly drew their very name [5]. It’s a common human conceit, this naming of places after themselves or their imagined divine patrons. T. F. O’Rahilly , a scholar of some repute, posited that if tribes were indeed frequently named after a divine ancestor, then the Érainn likely took their identity from a goddess named Érann, thereby suggesting that Loch Éirne translates to ’lake of (the goddess) Érann’ [5].

O’Rahilly, along with other academics, has gone so far as to link these names to Ériu (the modern Éire ), the very goddess after whom the island of Ireland itself is named [5]. He meticulously traced the earlier linguistic forms of these divine appellations, identifying them as Everna/Iverna and Everiu/Iveriu, both, he argued, originating from the “Indo-European root ei-,” which, rather predictably, implies motion. In this rather grand interpretation, Érann and Ériu would therefore signify “she who travels regularly,” a concept then conveniently explained as referencing the sun-goddess , for, as he sagely noted, the sun was indeed “the great celestial Traveller” [5]. One might observe that the sun’s regular travel is hardly a profound insight, but scholars do love their roots. In contrast, John T. Koch offered an alternative, suggesting that Ériu was a quintessential mother goddess whose name stemmed from an Indo-European word stem meaning “fat, rich, fertile” [5]—a less poetic, perhaps more grounded, if equally speculative, origin.

Beyond the dry academic debates, Irish mythology and folklore offer a more colourful, if equally improbable, trio of origin stories for the lake. One popular tale attributes the lake’s namesake to a mythical woman, Erne, who served as Queen Méabh ’s lady-in-waiting at Cruachan . The narrative recounts how Erne and her attendant maidens were seized by terror and fled from Cruachan when a truly fearsome giant, undoubtedly of the particularly unpleasant variety, emerged from the cave of Oweynagat. Their flight led them northward, culminating in their tragic demise by drowning in a river or lake, their bodies, quite conveniently, dissolving to form the very waters of Lough Erne [6]. Patricia Monaghan , a keen observer of such human inventions, notes that “The drowning of a goddess in a river is common in Irish mythology and typically represents the dissolving of her divine power into the water, which then gives life to the land” [7]. A rather efficient, if morbid, way to infuse a landscape with divine essence.

Another, perhaps less dramatic, account posits that the lake was simply formed when a magical spring-well, presumably with an unusually poor sense of containment, spectacularly overflowed [8]. This echoes a similar, equally fantastical, origin story ascribed to Lough Neagh . The third mythological explanation plunges into the realm of ancient conflict: during a brutal battle between the Érainn tribe and the forces of High King Fíachu Labrainne , the earth itself is said to have ruptured, causing the lake to burst forth from the ground and, rather inconveniently for them, drown the Érainn [8]. Such is the dramatic flair with which ancient peoples explained the inexplicable.

This particular body of water, in the epic account of Cath Maige Tuired (“the Battle of Moytura”), is listed with due gravitas as one of the twelve principal loughs of Ireland [9]. Historically, it also bore the name Loch Saimer (or Samhaoir). Folklore attributes this earlier name to a rather domestic tragedy: Partholón , in a fit of jealous rage, murdered his wife’s cherished hound, Saimer, and the lake, in a rather grim memorial, was named after the unfortunate animal [10].

Finally, for those who enjoy a protracted narrative, Lough Erne serves as the backdrop for a folk tale known as “The Story of Conn-eda” or “The Golden Apples of Lough Erne.” This particular yarn found its way into print in the esteemed Fairy and Folk Tales of the Irish Peasantry (1888). The tale, as these things often go, involves Conn-eda embarking on a perilous quest to acquire an improbable collection of items: three golden apples, a formidable black steed, and a supernatural hound, all to be retrieved from a city conveniently located beneath the waters of Lough Erne . This submerged metropolis, naturally, is ruled by a king of the Fir Bolg [11], because where else would a mythical underwater city be governed?

History

The historical tapestry woven around Lough Erne begins, as many things do, with ancient migrations and settlements. The Menapii , a Celtic tribe, hold the rather specific distinction of being the sole Celtic group explicitly identified on Ptolemy ’s map of Ireland , which dates back to AD 150. Their initial colonial foothold, Menapia, was established on the Leinster coast around 216 BC. In a predictable pattern of expansion and adaptation, these same Menapii later migrated and settled around the serene, or perhaps just damp, environs of Lough Erne . There, they became known as the Fir Manach, a name that, with little imaginative leap, eventually gave rise to the names of both Fermanagh and Monaghan . It’s a common human trait, leaving one’s indelible mark, often just by naming things after oneself.

Further adding to the historical mystique, Mongán mac Fiachnai , a 7th-century King of Ulster , finds himself at the centre of several legends that rather conveniently link him with the enigmatic sea deity Manannán mac Lir . The descendants of these early settlers, over centuries, dispersed across Ireland , eventually evolving into the various historic Irish (and indeed, Scottish and Manx) clans we know today [12]. A testament to persistent lineage, or perhaps just a lack of new ideas.

A more concrete, if less fantastical, historical artefact tied to the lake is the collection known as the Annals of Ulster . These meticulous historical records were painstakingly compiled in the late 15th century, not in some grand scriptorium, but on Belle Isle, a modest island nestled within the Upper Lough Erne. One can only imagine the quiet dedication, or perhaps the sheer boredom, that led to such an undertaking in relative isolation.

The 20th century brought the lake into the grim theatre of the Second World War . RAF Castle Archdale , a vital airbase, was established on Lough Erne ’s shores, serving as a crucial operational hub for the Battle of the Atlantic and the relentless struggle against German U-boats . In a fascinating display of diplomatic pragmatism, or perhaps just a convenient bending of principles, a clandestine agreement was struck with the officially neutral Irish Government. This accord permitted flying boats stationed at RAF Castle Archdale to traverse directly westward across neutral Ireland to reach the Atlantic. This strategic shortcut circumvented a cumbersome two-hour detour that would otherwise have been imposed on aircraft based solely within Northern Ireland . This rather convenient flight path became colloquially known as ‘The Donegal Corridor ’ [13]. It stands as a prime example of the myriad subtle, and not so subtle, ways Ireland managed to provide assistance to the Allies while ostensibly maintaining its declared neutrality – a delicate dance on the world stage.

More recently, in November 2012, the rather mundane locale gained a brief moment of international notoriety. It was announced that the Lough Erne Resort, a hotel sprawling across the southern shore of the Lower Lough, would play host to the 39th G8 summit [14]. One can only assume the world leaders found the tranquil setting conducive to their weighty, if often inconclusive, deliberations.

Geography

The geography of the Lough Erne system is defined by its fragmented nature, a sprawling aquatic labyrinth dotted with an abundance of small islands and numerous peninsulas . These peninsulas, in a testament to the convoluted shoreline, are often colloquially referred to as “islands” themselves. This proliferation of landmasses within the water was further accentuated by historical interventions: two extensive drainage schemes, implemented in the 1880s and again in the 1950s, effectively lowered the water level by approximately 5 feet (1.5 metres). This deliberate alteration had the effect of revealing what were once submerged landforms, transforming many areas into newly exposed islands.

The sheer number of these islands has, predictably, been subject to human exaggeration. The Parliamentary Gazetteer of 1846, with a hint of exasperation, noted that “The islands are popularly fabled to be as numerous as the days of the year; but they have been more soberly estimated at 90 in the Upper Lake and 109 in the Lower” [15]. A more grounded assessment, perhaps, but still a considerable number for any body of water.

Among this watery archipelago, certain islands stand out, if only for their size. Inishmore, located at the northern extremity of Upper Lough Erne, is one of the largest (and, to avoid confusion, it bears no relation to “Inish More or Davy’s Island” found in the Lower Lough). Galloon Island, positioned at the lower end of Upper Lough Erne, is another significant landmass. Whether these are entirely encircled by the lake’s waters or partially bordered by the meandering River Erne is, frankly, a matter of semantic pedantry. Following these in scale is Boa Island , situated within Lower Lough Erne. These three prominent islands are extensive enough to encompass multiple townlands , those ancient subdivisions of Irish land. Many of the subsequent largest islands, in a more modest fashion, comprise a single townland each.

The Lower Lough hosts a notable collection of islands, each with its own name and, presumably, its own story, though few are compelling enough to warrant detailed recounting. These include Boa Island , Cleenishmeen Island, Crevinishaughy Island, Cruninish Island, Devenish Island (known for its monastic ruins, a magnet for the historically curious), Ely Island, Goat Island, Horse Island, Inish Doney, Inish Fovar, Inish Lougher, Inish More or Davy’s Island, Inis Rath , Inishmacsaint , Inishmakill, Lustybeg Island , Lustymore Island , and White Island (another site of ancient stone figures).

The Upper Lough, not to be outdone in its fragmented splendour, contains its own array of islands: Bleanish Island, Crehan Island, Dernish Island, Inishcorkish, Inishcrevan, Inishfendra, Inishleague, Inishlught, Inishrath, Inishturk, Killygowan Island, Naan Island, and Trannish. A number of these islands have, in a rather predictable display of human acquisitiveness, fallen into private ownership, occasionally appearing on the open market for those with sufficient disposable income and a desire for watery isolation. For instance, in 2007, Inishturk was listed for a rather steep £695,000 [16], and in 2012, Inisliroo commanded a price of £600,000 [17]. One assumes the market for damp, secluded land is robust.

Beyond human concerns, these lake islands serve a more critical ecological role: they are the primary Irish stronghold for the scarce and rather elusive garden warbler , a creature that, unlike humans, seems to find this fragmented habitat perfectly suitable.

Administration

The intricate dance of managing the Lough Erne system is, as with most things involving human bureaucracy, a multi-layered affair. Waterways Ireland , a cross-border organisation brought into existence under the terms of the Good Friday Agreement in 1999, bears the responsibility for overseeing navigation across the entire Erne System, a task it shares with the other navigable waterways that crisscross the island of Ireland . One can only imagine the meetings required to coordinate such an endeavour.

The ownership of the lakebed and its foreshores remains firmly with the Department for Infrastructure Rivers, an entity that also shoulders the rather precise duty of managing water levels. These levels are meticulously maintained within the specific parameters outlined in the Erne Drainage and Development Act of 1950. The original drainage scheme, a testament to human ambition to control natural flows, was orchestrated by Percy Shepherd . This crucial water level management is not a solitary effort but is undertaken in close collaboration with the Electricity Supply Board (ESB), based in the Republic of Ireland . This partnership stems from an agreement forged in 1950, the year the River Erne was, quite literally, harnessed for hydroelectric power generation .

Under the terms of this agreement, water levels in the Upper Lough are mandated to fluctuate between 150 and 154 feet (46–47 m) during the period from April to September, while from October to March, they must be maintained at a minimum of 155 feet (47 m). For the Lower Lough, the prescribed range is between 147 and 152 feet (45–46 m) [18]. These figures, for those who find such precision vital, are referenced against the Irish grid datum at Poolbeg Lighthouse .

The actual control of water levels in both Upper and Lower Lough Erne is achieved through a network of control structures. A key installation is located at Portora in Enniskillen , supplemented by the operations of the hydroelectric power station situated at Cliff, nestled between Belleek and Ballyshannon in the Republic of Ireland . During the summer months, a period when human leisure activities predictably reach their peak, the objective is to keep the water level on the downstream side of Portora at or above 150 feet. This strategy is specifically designed to avoid the necessity of closing the gates, which would, inconveniently, require the use of the navigation lock and thereby restrict boat traffic during the prime tourist season. Because, of course, nothing must impede the pursuit of recreation.

The natural constraints of the inter-lough channel section mean that rapid lowering of water levels in the Upper Lough is inherently prevented. This geographical reality dictates that the Rivers Agency must engage in a constant, anticipatory struggle, predicting significant inflows and pre-emptively drawing down the loughs to ensure adequate flood storage capacity is available. A task that, despite best efforts, can be overwhelmed by nature’s caprice: in November 2009, for instance, the Erne system was subjected to a truly significant flood event [19], with water levels reaching their highest recorded points since the system’s alterations in the 1950s. A stark reminder that even the most meticulous human planning can be rendered utterly irrelevant by a sufficient deluge.

Amidst this bureaucratic and hydrological management, the Erne Rivers Trust, a non-governmental organisation operating under the Rivers Trust umbrella, endeavours to maintain the water quality within the Lough Erne catchment. Their stated goal is to preserve the aquatic environment for all its resident flora and fauna, a noble, if likely Sisyphean, task in the face of ongoing human impact.

Sport and tourism

For those who find the concept of “leisure” synonymous with strenuous activity, the Lough Erne area presents a rather predictable array of options. It is, by all accounts, a popular destination for angling and various watersports. Among the most favoured pursuits are the rather vigorous activities of waterskiing , rowing , and wakeboarding . The stretch of water adjacent to the Broadmeadow, in Enniskillen , has, with remarkable consistency, hosted stages of the World Waterski Championships annually since 2005. In 2007, the Erne Wakeboard Club (EWC), emboldened by its prior successes in national wakeboard competitions, even played host to a professional wakeboard event dubbed ‘Wakejam.’ For those preferring a quieter, yet still physically demanding, interaction with the water, canoeing also enjoys considerable popularity as a recreational sport on the Erne.

The venerable Lough Erne Yacht Club, for those who prefer their water-based activities to involve sails and rather less personal exertion, makes its home in Gublusk Bay. The Lough Erne Regatta proudly claims the title of Ireland ’s oldest event for racing under sail, boasting a lineage that, by all accounts, extends back beyond 1820 [20]. Such traditions, one supposes, must be maintained. A more practical, if less glamorous, presence on the lake is that of the RNLI , which maintains an inland lifeboat and rescue watercraft at Gublusk, with an additional station at Carrybridge on the Upper lake. A prudent measure, given the enthusiasm for potentially perilous watersports.

Beyond the aquatic gymnastics, the islands of Lough Erne also serve as convenient magnets for tourists interested in historical sites. Among these, the most notable include the rather dilapidated monastic ruins on Devenish Island and the enigmatic, ancient stone figures found on Boa Island and White Island . One might ponder the enduring human fascination with crumbling stones and inscrutable carvings.

In a more modern, and decidedly less ancient, vein of tourism, the Lough Erne Golf & Hotel Resort made its grand debut in October 2007, the brainchild of Irish businessman Jim Treacy. It sprawls across a generous 600-acre (240 ha) peninsula , strategically positioned between Castle Hume Lough and Lower Lough Erne. However, the predictable trajectory of grand human ventures often includes a precipitous fall: on 12 May 2011, it was rather unceremoniously announced that the hotel’s owner, Castle Hume Leisure Limited, had entered administration [21]. Despite these financial wobbles, the Lough Erne Resort did manage to host the Lough Erne Challenge in both 2009 and 2010. It was also, rather optimistically, slated to host the 2017 Irish Open golf tournament, though, in a twist of fate that suggests a certain lack of commitment, the event was ultimately relocated to an entirely different venue [22] [23]. Such is the ephemeral nature of sporting prestige.

Transport

For those intent on traversing the island’s watery veins, a canal known as the Shannon–Erne Waterway provides a navigable connection. This man-made channel links the upper reaches of the mighty River Shannon with the River Erne , thereby facilitating boat movements from the Shannon estuary in the southwest of Ireland , through the country’s western midlands, and across to the northwest, theoretically offering a path out to the Atlantic Ocean once more. However, in a typical example of human ambition meeting natural limitation, the final section leading to the Atlantic side of Belleek remains, inconveniently, unnavigable.

Furthermore, there is an ongoing, and presumably rather slow, process to restore the navigability of a section of the Ulster Canal . This particular segment aims to connect Lough Erne to Clones , with Waterways Ireland once again tasked with the rather persistent effort of making old routes useful again.

Gallery

• Upper Lough Erne Panorama

• Lower Lough Erne

• Upper Lough Erne

• Lower Lough Erne

See also

• List of loughs in Ireland

{{Places in County Fermanagh}}