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Shikoku

Shikoku

For the canine companion, consider the Shikoku dog. For cinematic endeavors, specifically the 1999 Japanese film, see Shikoku (film).

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Shikoku (四国, Shikoku; pronounced [ɕi̥ꜜ.ko.kɯ, ɕi̥.koꜜ.kɯ] ⓘ, literally translating to 'four provinces') represents the smallest among the four main islands that collectively form the nation of Japan. It stretches approximately 225 kilometres (140 miles) in length, with a width that varies considerably, ranging from 50 to 150 kilometres (30 to 95 miles). Despite its size, or perhaps because of it, Shikoku maintains the distinction of being the least populated of Japan's four primary islands, with a population hovering around 3.8 million. Geographically, it is situated to the south of Honshu, Japan's largest island, and to the northeast of Kyushu. Its historical nomenclature includes such poetic appellations as Iyo-no-futana-shima (伊予之二名島), Iyo-shima (伊予島), and Futana-shima (二名島). The island's current, more prosaic name, Shikoku, is a direct historical reference to the four former provinces that once constituted its entirety: Awa, Tosa, Sanuki, and Iyo. This nomenclature underscores a deep historical and administrative heritage that has shaped the island's identity for centuries.

Geography

Location and Composition

Chūgoku region and Shikoku seen from the International Space Station

Shikoku Island, encompassing the main landmass and its numerous surrounding smaller islands, spans a total area of approximately 18,800 square kilometres (7,259 sq mi). This geographical expanse is administratively divided into four distinct prefectures: Ehime, Kagawa, Kōchi, and Tokushima. The island's strategic position across the Seto Inland Sea places it in close proximity to several significant prefectures on Honshu, including Wakayama, Osaka, Hyōgo, Okayama, Hiroshima, and Yamaguchi Prefectures. To its west, across the Bungo Channel, lie Ōita and Miyazaki Prefectures on Kyushu, further cementing its role as a key component of the Japanese archipelago.

Geofeatures map of Shikoku

In terms of sheer physical dimensions, Shikoku holds the distinction of being the 50th largest island by area globally. Its human footprint is also notable, ranking as the 23rd most populated island worldwide, supporting a population density of approximately 193 inhabitants per square kilometre (500/sq mi).

Topography and Climate

The island's internal geography is dramatically defined by a prominent chain of mountains that traverse its length from east to west. This formidable geological backbone effectively cleaves Shikoku into two distinct subregions. To the north, a narrower strip of land gently slopes towards the tranquil waters of the Seto Inland Sea. This northern face benefits from the sheltered climate provided by the surrounding landmasses, resulting in milder weather patterns. Conversely, the southern portion of the island presents a more rugged and expansive mountainous terrain, directly exposed to the vast, often turbulent, expanse of the Pacific Ocean. Within these mountainous reaches, one might even stumble upon the delicate, resilient Hydrangea hirta species, a testament to the unique ecological niches present.

The stark climatic and topographical differences have profoundly influenced human settlement patterns. The overwhelming majority of Shikoku's 3.8 million inhabitants, a figure that seems to dwindle with each passing year, reside in the northern subregion. Consequently, nearly all of the island's few larger urban centers are concentrated there, drawn by the more hospitable environment and easier access to the main island of Honshu. Dominating the skyline of Ehime Prefecture, and indeed the entire island, is Mount Ishizuchi (石鎚山), which majestically rises to an elevation of 1,982 meters (6,503 ft), making it the undisputed highest peak. This sacred mountain is not merely a geological feature but a significant site for Shugendō practitioners, a syncretic religion combining elements of Buddhism and Shinto, who undertake rigorous ascetic training on its slopes.

Economy and Agriculture

The northern region supports a moderately developed industrial base, which historically included the processing of ores extracted from the once immensely significant Besshi copper mine. Though the mine ceased operations in 1973, its legacy as one of Japan's most productive copper mines for centuries left an indelible mark on the region's economy and infrastructure, attracting skilled labor and fostering technological advancements. Land utilization across the northern plains is remarkably intensive, a necessity born of limited arable space. Extensive alluvial areas, particularly prevalent in the eastern sections of this zone, are meticulously cultivated for rice production. Following the rice harvest, these fields are often double-cropped with winter wheat and barley, maximizing output. The northern area also boasts a diverse and abundant cultivation of fruits, including various citrus varieties, persimmons, peaches, and grapes, benefiting from the region's temperate climate. The historical prominence of wheat cultivation, especially in what was formerly Sanuki Province (now Kagawa Prefecture), directly contributed to the ubiquitous presence and cultural significance of Sanuki udon (讃岐うどん). This thick wheat noodle dish became an indispensable staple of the local diet during the Edo period, a tradition that persists with fervent dedication to this day.

In stark contrast, the expansive southern reaches of Shikoku are characterized by their rugged mountainous terrain and correspondingly sparse population. The only significant lowland area here is a modest alluvial plain situated around Kōchi, which serves as the prefectural capital. The region's relatively mild winters, a blessing from the Pacific, have historically fostered specialized truck farming, with a particular emphasis on cultivating out-of-season vegetables under protective plastic coverings, a pragmatic adaptation to market demands. Here, the agricultural cycle allows for two rice crops annually, a testament to the longer growing season. The abundant forests and the potential for hydroelectric power generation have also historically supported a thriving pulp and paper industry, capitalizing on natural resources.

Hydrology and Coastal Features

The most prominent river traversing Shikoku is the Yoshino River. Originating from its source near the majestic Mount Ishizuchi, this vital waterway meanders for 196 kilometres (121.8 miles), primarily flowing from west to east across the northern boundaries of Kōchi and Tokushima Prefectures before finally emptying into the sea at the city of Tokushima. The Yoshino River has garnered considerable fame, not just for its ecological importance, but as a premier destination for white-water rafting in Japan, with exhilarating trips navigating the challenging and picturesque Oboke Koboke sections of the river.

Shikoku's coastline is punctuated by four significant capes, each marking a cardinal point of its geography: Gamōda in Anan, Tokushima, which defines the easternmost extremity of the island; Sada in Ikata, Ehime, marking its westernmost reach. To the south, two dramatic capes jut defiantly into the Pacific Ocean: Muroto in Muroto, Kōchi, known for its rugged cliffs and geological formations, and Ashizuri, the absolute southern extreme of Shikoku, located in Tosashimizu, Kōchi, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the ocean. The island's northernmost point is found within the city limits of Takamatsu.

Geological Stability

A unique characteristic that sets Shikoku apart from its three larger Japanese counterparts is the complete absence of active volcanoes. It holds the distinction of being the largest of Japan's islands to entirely lack such volatile geological features, offering a comparatively serene existence amidst a nation frequently reshaped by seismic and volcanic forces. This is not to say Shikoku has always been geologically inert; evidence suggests significant volcanic activity in the distant prehistoric past. For instance, a substantial volcanic caldera in the vicinity of Mount Ishizuchi was actively erupting during the Miocene epoch, approximately 14 million years ago, a geological event of immense scale. Additionally, the smaller, more modest volcanic cone of Mount Iino, affectionately known as "Sanuki Fuji," also experienced volcanic activity at an unspecified point in time, though its exact age remains a subject of ongoing geological investigation.

Population

Shikoku recorded a total population of 3,630,320 as of 2022. The largest urban center on the island is Matsuyama, with a population of 507,137, which also serves as the capital of Ehime Prefecture. Despite its status as the least populous of Japan's main islands, Shikoku still maintains a notable population density, ranking as the third most densely populated main island at 193 inhabitants per square kilometre (500/sq mi). However, this density is heavily skewed towards the northern coastal areas.

List of 20 major cities in Shikoku

The following table outlines the 20 largest cities on Shikoku, providing insight into the distribution of its population across the four prefectures.

Rank Cities Prefecture Population
1 Matsuyama Ehime 507,137
2 Takamatsu Kagawa 414,363
3 Kōchi Kōchi 321,910
4 Tokushima Tokushima 250,150
5 Imabari Ehime 147,334
6 Niihama Ehime 113,755
7 Marugame Kagawa 108,744
8 Saijō Ehime 102,830
9 Shikokuchūō Ehime 80,952
10 Uwajima Ehime 68,213
11 Anan Tokushima 67,891
12 Mitoyo Kagawa 60,106
13 Kan'onji Kagawa 56,258
14 Naruto Tokushima 53,368
15 Sakaide Kagawa 49,487
16 Sanuki Kagawa 45,763
17 Nankoku Kōchi 46,176
18 Ōzu Ehime 39,352
19 Yoshinogawa Tokushima 37,707
20 Komatsushima Tokushima 35,288

Capital cities of four prefectures of Shikoku

The administrative centers of Shikoku's four prefectures are:

Historical Population Trends

According to comprehensive Japanese census data, the Shikoku region experienced its peak population in 1950. Following this zenith, the island underwent a period of negative population growth from 1950 to 1970, and again from 1990 onwards, a trend mirroring broader demographic challenges across rural Japan, including an aging society and the migration of younger generations to larger metropolitan areas on Honshu. This demographic shift has profound implications for regional economies and social structures, leading to discussions about revitalization and sustainable development in the face of dwindling numbers.

Year Pop. ±%
1920 3,066,000 —
1930 3,310,000 +8.0%
1940 3,337,000 +0.8%
1950 4,221,000 +26.5%
1960 4,122,000 −2.3%
1970 3,904,000 −5.3%
1980 4,163,000 +6.6%
1990 4,195,000 +0.8%
2000 4,154,039 −1.0%
2010 3,977,282 −4.3%
2018 3,755,765 −5.6%

Sightseeing

For those who find themselves drawn to the less frenetic pace of Japan, Shikoku offers a curated selection of destinations. These range from bustling prefectural capitals to more secluded towns, each contributing to the island's distinctive charm.

Culture

Society and Architecture

Shikoku has, for centuries, maintained a degree of geographical and cultural isolation from the more populous and politically dominant regions of Honshu. This relative seclusion has inadvertently served as a crucible for the preservation of certain "original characteristics" of Japan, particularly evident in its unique vegetation and traditional architectural techniques, which often reflect practical adaptations to the local environment rather than external influences. The island is notably rich in Buddhist temples, reflecting a deep spiritual heritage woven into the fabric of daily life.

The concept of a "lost" Shikoku has been evocatively described by American writer Alex Kerr, who, from the 1970s onwards, made his home in a remote mountain village nestled near Oboke (大歩危). His writings often highlight the disappearing traditional landscapes and ways of life in rural Japan, emphasizing Shikoku's role as a repository of such vanishing cultural elements.

For those inclined towards natural beauty, the Ashizuri-Uwakai National Park sprawls across the southwestern part of Shikoku, safeguarding a diverse ecosystem that includes dramatic coastal cliffs, coral reefs, and lush forests, offering a glimpse into the island's untamed natural heritage.

Traditions

Yosakoi festival

Perhaps the most iconic cultural tradition of Shikoku is its revered 88-temple pilgrimage, known as Shikoku Henro. This arduous, spiritual journey connects 88 official Buddhist temples, along with countless unofficial sacred sites, across all four prefectures of the island. The pilgrimage was famously established by the Heian-period Buddhist priest Kūkai (posthumously known as Kōbō-Daishi), who was himself a native of present-day Zentsūji-cho in Kagawa Prefecture. Legend dictates that Kūkai, even in death, continues to guide and appear to pilgrims, offering spiritual solace and protection. While the traditional method of undertaking the pilgrimage by foot, a journey that can span weeks or even months, is still practiced by a dedicated few, most modern-day pilgrims opt for the convenience of bus tours, often completing the circuit in a matter of days. Regardless of their mode of transport, pilgrims are readily identifiable by their distinctive white jackets, often emblazoned with the characters dōgyō ninin (同行二人), a profound phrase signifying "two traveling together," implying that Kūkai himself accompanies each pilgrim on their sacred quest.

Tokushima Prefecture proudly hosts its annual Awa Odori festival every August, coinciding with the deeply significant Obon festival, which honors ancestral spirits. This vibrant and energetic dance festival, characterized by its unique rhythm and joyful, somewhat chaotic movements, draws hundreds of thousands of tourists annually, not just from across Japan but from international shores, all eager to witness or participate in this captivating display of regional pride and tradition.

Kōchi Prefecture is the birthplace and host of the inaugural annual Yosakoi festival. Also held in August, this dynamic festival is a spectacular showcase of choreographed group dancing, featuring teams adorned in elaborate, colorful costumes. It has grown into the largest festival in Kōchi, attracting countless dancers and spectators from all corners of Japan, all drawn by its infectious energy and creative freedom.

Food

Sanuki udon

When discussing the culinary landscape of Shikoku, it is almost impossible to overlook the profound importance of udon. While a staple across Japan, Shikoku's udon, particularly the Sanuki udon of Kagawa Prefecture, holds an almost legendary status. Udon noodles are typically served hot as a comforting noodle soup, most simply as kake udon, immersed in a mildly flavored broth known as kakejiru. This broth is meticulously crafted from dashi (a flavorful stock, often kombu and katsuobushi-based), soy sauce (shōyu), and mirin (a sweet rice wine). The dish is customarily garnished with thinly chopped scallions, adding a fresh, piquant counterpoint. Additional popular toppings include various forms of tempura, such as succulent prawn tempura or kakiage (a type of mixed tempura fritter). Another common addition is aburaage, which are thinly sliced, deep-fried tofu pockets, often seasoned with a delicate balance of sugar, mirin, and soy sauce, imparting a sweet and savory flavor. A thin, elegant slice of kamaboko, a half-moon-shaped fish cake, frequently completes the presentation. For those desiring an extra kick, a sprinkle of shichimi (Japanese seven-spice chili pepper) can be added to taste.

Beyond noodles, Kōchi Prefecture boasts its signature dish, seared bonito, locally known as katsuo no tataki. This preparation involves briefly searing the fish over a straw fire, creating a crispy exterior while leaving the interior raw and tender. It is typically served sliced thick with garlic, scallions, and a ponzu-based sauce, offering a robust and fresh taste of the Pacific.

The warm and generally mild climate that envelops much of Shikoku proves exceptionally conducive to the cultivation of various citrus fruits. Consequently, fruits such as yuzu, a fragrant and tart citrus, and mikan, a sweet, seedless tangerine, are found in abundant quantities across the island. These fruits have become deeply synonymous with the specific regions where they are cultivated, not merely as agricultural products but as integral elements of the local identity, used in everything from culinary preparations to traditional crafts.

Movements

Shikoku also holds significance in the realm of sustainable agriculture. It was here that the pioneering natural farmer Masanobu Fukuoka, a native of Ehime Prefecture, developed and refined his revolutionary methods of natural farming. His profound philosophy, advocating for minimal human intervention in cultivation, was famously articulated in his seminal work, The One-Straw Revolution. This influential book, published in 1975, detailed his experiences and insights from his family's farm in Shikoku, inspiring a global movement towards ecological farming practices and challenging conventional agricultural paradigms.

Sports

Historically, Shikoku has not been a hotbed for top-tier Japanese professional sports. No Shikoku-based sports team has consistently competed in the highest divisions of popular national leagues, whether it be baseball, football (soccer), or even rugby union. This reality often reflects the economic and population disparities between Shikoku and Japan's major metropolitan areas, which typically host the most prominent sports franchises. However, there have been notable exceptions and consistent efforts to elevate regional sports. Tokushima Vortis, for instance, has had two stints in the top flight of Japanese soccer, the J1 League, in 2014 and 2021, showcasing the potential for regional teams to compete at the highest level.

Currently, the major sports teams competing in Shikoku's principal cities include:

Notable Sportspeople

Adding a touch of international flair to Shikoku's sporting achievements, two-time darts Women's World Champion Mikuru Suzuki hails from Takamatsu in Kagawa Prefecture on Shikoku. Her success on the global stage demonstrates that talent can emerge from any corner, even if it's not always in the most traditionally revered national sports.

Transportation

Roads

Kōchi Castle Anraku-ji in Kamiita, Tokushima

Shikoku’s relative isolation was significantly mitigated by the ambitious Honshū–Shikoku Bridge Project, a monumental feat of engineering that connected the island to the main island of Honshu via three distinct expressways. These vital arteries are:

The eastern gateway to Shikoku, the city of Naruto in Tokushima Prefecture, has been directly linked to the Kobe-Awaji-Naruto Expressway since its completion in 1998. This particular route establishes a crucial connection between Shikoku and the densely populated Kansai area on Honshu, which includes the sprawling conurbations of Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe. Consequently, the Kobe-Awaji-Naruto Expressway carries a substantial volume of traffic, facilitating both commercial and passenger transport. Numerous highway bus services operate frequently between the Kansai region and Tokushima Prefecture, offering convenient inter-island travel.

The central part of Shikoku, prior to the comprehensive bridge network, relied heavily on ferries and air travel for connections to Honshu. However, since 1988, the completion of the Great Seto Bridge network has dramatically transformed accessibility. Before these bridges, the region was, by many accounts, considerably isolated from the economic and social currents of the rest of Japan. The freer movement of goods and people between Honshu and Shikoku was widely anticipated to ignite significant economic development on both sides of these engineering marvels. Unfortunately, the grand promises of such development have not, as yet, fully materialized, leading to ongoing discussions about regional revitalization strategies.

Within Shikoku itself, a comprehensive network of expressways and national highways efficiently links its major population centers. These include critical routes such as the Kōchi Expressway, Matsuyama Expressway, Takamatsu Expressway, and Tokushima Expressway, alongside national routes like Routes 11, 32, 33, 55, and 56, all designed to facilitate intra-island travel and commerce.

Rail

The island's rail services are primarily operated by the Shikoku Railway Company (JR Shikoku), which also provides connections to Honshu via the impressive Great Seto Bridge railway line. JR Shikoku’s network on the island includes:

In addition to the JR network, several private railway lines operate within each of Shikoku's four prefectures, serving local communities and supplementing the main inter-prefectural routes. These private lines often offer unique scenic routes and connect to areas less accessible by the broader JR system.

Air Travel

While Shikoku does not boast a full-fledged international airport, it is adequately served by four regional/domestic airports: Tokushima Airport, Takamatsu Airport, Kōchi Ryōma Airport, and Matsuyama Airport. These airports provide essential air links, primarily offering regular flights to Tokyo (Narita and Haneda) and other significant Japanese cities such as Osaka, Nagoya, Sapporo, and Fukuoka. For international connectivity, Asiana Airlines operates scheduled flights to Seoul, South Korea, from both Matsuyama and Takamatsu. Furthermore, periodic international charter flights are arranged, catering to specific seasonal demand or tour groups, further enhancing Shikoku's accessibility to a global audience, albeit on a limited basis.

Sea Travel

Ferries continue to play a crucial role in Shikoku's transportation network, providing vital links to various destinations. These sea routes connect Shikoku not only to Honshu and Kyushu but also to the numerous smaller islands scattered around Shikoku itself, many of which are otherwise inaccessible. These ferry services are important for both local residents and tourists, offering a scenic and often more economical alternative to land and air travel, and preserving a traditional mode of transport that has shaped the island's connectivity for centuries.

See also