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River Cleddau

For the river in New Zealand, see Cleddau River.

River Cleddau

The Western Cleddau, seen here weaving its way through the very heart of Haverfordwest Town Centre, presents a rather picturesque facade, belying the deeper currents of history and geology it carries.

Native name Afon Cleddau (Welsh)
Location
Country Wales
County Pembrokeshire
Physical characteristics
• Source Western Cleddau
 • location Penysgwarne, Pembrokeshire
• 2nd source Eastern Cleddau
 • location Waun Cleddau, Preseli Hills, Pembrokeshire
Mouth Celtic Sea
 • location Milford Haven, Pembrokeshire

The Western Cleddau at Haverfordwest, a testament to the persistent erosion of time and water.

The River Cleddau (Welsh: Afon Cleddau), a name that rolls off the tongue with a certain ancient gravitas, is not a singular entity but rather a confluence of two distinct, yet inextricably linked, waterways in Pembrokeshire, west Wales. It is formed by the deliberate journeys of the Eastern Cleddau and the Western Cleddau rivers, each carving its own path through the rugged Welsh landscape. These two arterial flows eventually converge with an almost inevitable grace, uniting to form the broad, compelling expanse of the Daugleddau estuary, which, in turn, feeds into the vast, sheltered harbour known globally as the Milford Haven Waterway. It’s a geographical narrative of separation and eventual, powerful union.

The nomenclature itself is a study in precise observation. The name of the combined estuary – the Daugleddau – translates with a pragmatic clarity to “the two Cleddaus,” a descriptor that leaves little room for ambiguity, unlike many of life's more pressing questions. [1] The origin of the name Cleddau, while appearing plural in its '-au' suffix (a common indicator of plurality in the Welsh language), is derived from the older Welsh term cleddyf, meaning 'sword'. [2] This isn't merely a poetic flourish; it's a stark, almost brutal, acknowledgment of the geological reality. The rivers are not simply flowing over the land; they are incised, cut deeply and sharply into the very fabric of Pembrokeshire's landscape, much like the deliberate stroke of a blade. This topographical characteristic gives the rivers their enduring, almost martial, identity. In a rather less dramatic, more administrative turn, a collection of former Anglican parishes within this riverine domain have been amalgamated, forming the contemporary Church in Wales parish of Daugleddau, nestled within the venerable Diocese of St Davids. [3] One might almost suggest the church sought to reflect the rivers' own unifying nature, albeit with less geological drama.

Eastern Cleddau

The Eastern Cleddau, captured here in the serene, almost timeless embrace of Blackpool Mill, offers a glimpse into its more tranquil, yet equally determined, character.

The Eastern Cleddau, known in Welsh as Cleddau Ddu, a name that evokes a sense of 'black' or perhaps 'dark' waters, begins its journey with a quiet resolve in the lower reaches, the foothills, if you will, of Mynydd Preseli. Its precise point of genesis is Blaencleddau, situated within the ancient parish of Mynachlog-ddu, a place where the land still whispers tales of old. From this humble origin, it embarks on a steady southwestward flow, traversing a landscape characterized initially by a broad, expansive moorland valley. This stretch of its journey is marked by an almost contemplative solitude, winding through open country until it reaches Gelli Hill. Here, it is joined by the waters of the River Syfynwy, a tributary that adds its own momentum to the growing current.

Beyond this confluence, the Eastern Cleddau's character shifts, transforming into a more assertive, southward flow. It carves a deep, pronounced valley, a testament to its persistent erosive power, passing landmarks such as the historic Llawhaden. The river's freshwaters eventually meet the encroaching sea, becoming distinctly tidal at Canaston Bridge, a critical juncture that historically marked the lowest navigable crossing point. This transition from freshwater stream to tidal estuary signifies a profound change in its nature, marking its readiness for the ultimate union. The estuary, now broadened and influenced by the rhythms of the ocean, eventually merges with that of its sibling, the Western Cleddau, at the aptly named Picton Point. The total length of the Eastern Cleddau's journey is approximately 34 kilometers (about 21 miles), with roughly 7 kilometers (around 4.3 miles) of this considerable expanse being subject to the ebb and flow of the tides.

Western Cleddau

The Western Cleddau, as observed near St Catherine's Bridge, showcases a powerful, almost defiant, course through the Pembrokeshire landscape.

The Western Cleddau, or Cleddau Wen in Welsh, a name that curiously translates to 'white' – perhaps a nod to its more turbulent, foam-flecked passages – commences its intricate journey not from a single source, but from two distinct branches, much like a thought forming in two separate lobes of a complex mind. The eastern branch of this bifurcated river system originates at Llygad Cleddau, located within the parish of Llanfair Nant y Gôf, a mere 4 kilometers (about 2.5 miles) southeast of the coastal town of Fishguard. This branch then flows resolutely southwestward, passing through the village of Scleddau, a name which, rather fittingly, echoes its own. It is at Priskilly that this eastern flow meets its counterpart, the western branch. The western branch itself rises at Penysgwarne, nestled within the parish of Llanreithan, and proceeds eastward, a determined course towards its eventual rendezvous at Priskilly.

Once united, this combined stream embarks on a journey that is anything but tranquil. It navigates through Wolf's Castle before plunging into the dramatic, almost formidable, confines of the Treffgarne gorge. This chasm, an impressive 90 meters (approximately 295 feet) deep, represents a formidable geological challenge, as the river has relentlessly carved its path through the unyielding, hard volcanic rocks that define Treffgarne Mountain. It’s a testament to the sheer, persistent force of water against rock. Emerging from this geological crucible, the river continues its southward trajectory towards the historic town of Haverfordwest. It is here, at Haverfordwest, that the river finally succumbs to the influence of the sea, becoming tidal; this point also marks the lowest bridge crossing, a vital historical and logistical landmark. Beyond Haverfordwest, the tidal estuary of the Western Cleddau expands dramatically, transforming into a deep, fjord-like ria, a drowned river valley. This impressive expanse then ultimately converges with the estuary of the Eastern Cleddau at Picton Point, culminating in the formation of the majestic Daugleddau estuary. The entire length of the Western Cleddau, tracing its course from Penysgwarne to Picton Point, spans approximately 40 kilometers (roughly 25 miles), with a significant portion, about 9 kilometers (around 5.6 miles), being subject to the daily rhythm of the tides.

The Western Cleddau offers a compelling, almost textbook, example of a misfit stream. This term, rather dismissive perhaps, describes a river whose current flow appears disproportionately small compared to the immense valley it occupies. The valley itself is undeniably deep, yet the stream that meanders within its confines seems almost insignificant by comparison. The true architects of this grand valley were not the present-day Cleddau, but the colossal forces unleashed at the end of the last Ice Age. During this epoch, the mighty River Teifi, swollen to an unimaginable scale with vast quantities of meltwaters from retreating glaciers, was prevented from discharging directly into the Irish Sea by an immense ice dam. This geological obstruction forced the Teifi to reroute its monumental flow, pushing westward through the valleys of the Nyfer and Gwaun, before turning sharply south, following and profoundly shaping the very course of what we now know as the Western Cleddau. The current river is merely a whisper of the colossal torrent that once carved this impressive landscape.

Historically, the tidal estuary of the Western Cleddau was a lifeline, a watery highway that permitted sea traffic to penetrate deep inland, reaching as far as Haverfordwest. This accessibility proved crucial for various industries. Notably, it played a significant role in the export of anthracite, a highly prized, hard coal that was extensively mined on the river's west bank, particularly around the area of Hook, from where it was efficiently shipped to markets far beyond Pembrokeshire's shores.

Daugleddau Estuary and Milford Haven

The Cleddau Bridge, a modern marvel of engineering, majestically spans the Daugleddau, as viewed from the historic town of Neyland, a silent sentinel to the estuary's enduring significance.

The combined estuary—the Daugleddau—stretching from the vital navigational marker of Picton Point all the way to the formidable Blockhouses that stand guard at the harbour entrance, is not merely a river mouth but a truly massive ria. This geological feature, essentially a drowned river valley, is characterized by its impressive depth and expansive width, attributes that make it an exceptional natural harbour. Crucially, its serpentine, winding nature offers inherent protection from the savage forces of high winds and rough seas, creating a sanctuary for vessels. This unique combination of deep water, ample space, and natural shelter has historically rendered it an unparalleled natural harbour.

Its capacity to comfortably accommodate colossal supertankers of 300,000 tonnes and even greater displacement, a capability few other ports could boast, transformed it into a pivotal epicenter of the global oil industry from the mid-20th century onwards, specifically from 1957. Major international petroleum corporations, including Esso, BP, Texaco, Gulf Oil, and Amoco, established significant operations here, developing extensive terminals and sophisticated oil refineries along its shores. This industrial boom was so profound that, for a brief period in the mid-1970s, the Daugleddau astonishingly rose to become the United Kingdom's second-largest port in terms of total tonnage handled. The Daugleddau, along with its numerous tributary tidal reaches, is collectively and more famously known as Milford Haven. Its considerable length, spanning approximately 27 kilometers (around 17 miles) from Picton Point to the Blockhouses, underscores its strategic importance.

Historically, the estuary's deep, navigable waters provided crucial seaborne access to formidable medieval strongholds, such as the majestic Pembroke Castle and the elegant Carew Castle. This maritime accessibility was not merely a convenience; it was a strategic advantage, allowing these castles to serve as vital logistical depots and staging points during the audacious Norman invasion of Ireland, a testament to the enduring link between geography and conquest. It continued to play an indispensable role during the burgeoning years of the Industrial Revolution, facilitating the efficient shipment of valuable anthracite from mining communities like Llangwm, Landshipping, and Crescelly. Furthermore, it served as a conduit for the transport of limestone, a crucial commodity, quarried from areas such as Lawrenny and West Williamston.

While a modest fishing industry once sustained various small harbours and villages along its shores, including Pill, Angle, and Dale, [4] a seismic shift occurred in 1790 with the ambitious commencement of the new town of Milford. [5] This planned settlement quickly fostered the growth of a substantial herring fishery, which became the economic lifeblood of its burgeoning docks. [6] In its halcyon days, Milford's fishing fleet propelled it to become the seventh-largest fishing port in the UK, supporting several hundred fishing trawlers and countless livelihoods. However, the relentless depletion of inshore fishing grounds, coupled with the docks' inability to accommodate the larger, more modern ocean-going trawlers, led to a precipitous decline, and fishing activity in the area is now virtually non-existent, a stark reminder of the transient nature of resource-based industries.

Milford itself was originally conceived and constructed to house a naval dockyard, an ambitious project intended to bolster Britain's maritime power. However, this grand plan was ultimately transferred in 1814 to Pembroke Dock, strategically located on the opposite side of the estuary. [7] The Pembroke Dock naval facility operated with distinction for over a century, contributing significantly to naval history, until its eventual closure in 1926. The town of Neyland, initially christened New Milford, represents another chapter in purposeful urban planning. It was meticulously built by the Great Western Railway with the specific aim of serving as a vital transatlantic shipping terminal, a gateway to the new world. Yet, as with many grand designs, its primary functions were largely rerouted and transferred to Fishguard in the early 20th century, another testament to the ceaseless currents of economic and technological change.

Ecology

Both the Eastern and Western branches of the Cleddau are, rather remarkably, distinguished by their exceptionally diverse aquatic ecology. This rich biodiversity is particularly noteworthy because it has remained, to a significant extent, largely insulated from the more pervasive and often detrimental impacts of human industrial and agricultural activities. These rivers are not merely conduits for water; they are vibrant ecosystems that proudly support healthy populations of the elusive otter (Lutra lutra), a charismatic indicator species of clean water and unspoiled habitats. Furthermore, their waters teem with a wide variety of fish species, including the ancient and fascinating Lampreys – primitive, jawless fish that represent a vital part of the aquatic food web.

Significant stretches of both the Eastern and Western Cleddau rivers have been formally recognized and designated as SSSIs (Sites of Special Scientific Interest). [8] [9] [10] [11] This designation is primarily due to their critical importance for sustaining robust populations of specific species: the otter (Lutra lutra), the bullhead (Cottus gobio), the river lamprey (Lampetra fluviatilis), and the brook lamprey (Lampetra planeri). Beyond these key species, the rivers also hold special interest for the presence of the formidable sea lamprey (Petromyzon marinus), the largest of the lamprey species. The SSSI designation further recognizes the exceptional range of river habitats present, including extensive beds of submerged aquatic plants, which are frequently dominated by various species of water-crowfoot (Ranunculus spp.). Complementing these aquatic environments, a rich assortment of associated riverside habitats further enhances the ecological value of these designated areas. [12]

Adding another layer of protection and recognition, the Cleddau rivers are also designated as a Special Area of Conservation (SAC). This European-level designation underscores their profound ecological significance, particularly for specific species and habitat types. These include the European bullhead (Cottus gobio), the European river lamprey (Lampetra fluviatilis), the Brook lamprey (Lampetra planeri), the Otter (Lutra lutra), and the Sea lamprey (Petromyzon marinus). The SAC designation also protects the distinctive river habitats characterized by their floating vegetation, which is often dominated by species of water-crowfoot, representing specialized watercourses found across plain to montane levels with the Ranunculion fluitantis and Callitricho-Batrachion vegetation communities. Furthermore, the SAC status extends to active raised bogs, which are rare and fragile peatland ecosystems, and to vital Alder woodlands found on floodplains (specifically, Alluvial forests with Alnus glutinosa and Fraxinus excelsior, classified under Alno-Padion, Alnion incanae, Salicion albae), all contributing to a rich tapestry of interconnected ecosystems. [13]

In an even more granular level of conservation, the land surrounding Gweunydd Blaencleddau, a significant north-eastern tributary of the Eastern Cleddau, [14] has also been designated as a Special Area of Conservation. This specific SAC protects an array of critical habitats, including: calcium-rich springwater-fed fens, known as Alkaline fens, which support unique plant communities; crucial populations of the rare southern damselfly (Coenagrion mercuriale); and the vibrant marsh fritillary butterfly (Euphydryas aurinia). The designation also safeguards purple moor-grass meadows, specifically molinia meadows found on calcareous, peaty, or clayey-silt-laden soils (Molinion caeruleae). Additionally, it protects wet heathland characterized by cross-leaved heath (Rhostiroedd gwlyb – Northern Atlantic wet heaths with Erica tetralix); very wet mires often identified by their unstable, 'quaking' surfaces (transition mires and quaking bogs); and expansive blanket bogs, all of which contribute to the ecological integrity and biodiversity of this remarkable region. [15]

See also

  • Dungleddy, an ancient hundred whose name continues in the present day as Daugleddau

Notes

  • ^ Charles, B. G, The Placenames of Pembrokeshire, National Library of Wales, Aberystwyth, 1992, Vol 1, pp. 6–7
  • ^ Owen, H. W. & Morgan, R. 2007 Dictionary of the Place-names of Wales Gomer Press, Ceredigion
  • ^ "The Church in Wales: Daugleddau". Retrieved 16 May 2020.
  • ^ George, Barbara J; Pembrokeshire Sea Trading Before 1900 [Archived 15 December 2010 at the Wayback Machine](web.archive.org) Field Studies Journal; Pg, 5-6; Retrieved 19 January 2010
  • ^ BBC South West Wales website 'A Brief History of Milford', Jon Gower Retrieved 19 January 2010
  • ^ Pembrokeshire Record Office, from 'Archives Network Wales' [Archived 5 June 2011 at the Wayback Machine](web.archive.org) Retrieved 30 January 2010
  • ^ Extract from Bartholomew, John (1887) 'Gazetteer of the British Isles' from Vision of Britain.org] Retrieved 30 January 2010
  • ^ "MAGIC Map Application - Afon Cleddau Dwyreiniol SSSI". DEFRA MAGIC Map . DEFRA.
  • ^ "MAGIC Map Application - Afon Cleddau Gorllewinol SSSI". DEFRA MAGIC Map . DEFRA.
  • ^ "Site of Special Scientific Interest, Carmarthenshire, Afon Cleddau Dwyreiniol" (PDF). Natural Resources Wales.
  • ^ "Site of Special Scientific Interest, Carmarthenshire, Afon Cleddau Gorllewinol" (PDF). Natural Resources Wales.
  • ^ Countryside Council for Wales – Protecting Our Landscape [Archived 2011-06-09 at the Wayback Machine](web.archive.org)
  • ^ "Entry in the Register of European Sites for Wales, Afonydd Cleddau, Special Area of Conservation" (PDF). Natural Resources Wales.
  • ^ "Gweunydd Blaencleddau, Special Area of Conservation map" (PDF). Natural Resources Wales.
  • ^ "Entry in the Register of European Sites for Wales, Gweunydd Blaencleddau, Special Area of Conservation" (PDF). Natural Resources Wales.

External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to River Cleddau.

  • SSSI & SAC links from Natural Resources Wales
  • NRW Designated Sites search page - tens of maps - search for 'Cleddau'
  • Afon Cleddau Dwyreiniol / Eastern Cleddau River
  • SSSI Citation
  • SSI Management Statement
  • Afon Cleddau Gorllewinol / Western Cleddau River
  • SSSI Citation
  • SSSI Management Statement
  • Afonydd Cleddau / Cleddau Rivers
  • SAC Entry
  • Large-scale SAC map
  • Gweunydd Blaencleddau
  • SAC Entry
  • SAC map
  • DEFRA's MAGIC Map
  • Afon Cleddau Dwyreiniol / Eastern Cleddau River SSSI map
  • Afon Cleddau Gorllewinol / Western Cleddau River SSSI map

Authority control databases

  • VIAF